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  • Ensure you have connectivity and your connection is not dropping, see related article below.
  • If connection is stable click on the same map and click on the last flash option (FLASH FULL AND UNLOCK - Diag Only). This will attempt to perform a full flash.

  • If this fails indicating an error about ext diag session or before 2% then there is something blocking the flash process, such as:
    • Firewall or Windows Defender is turned on (make sure they are fully disabled)
    • Any antivirus or network security software (Norton, AVG, McAfee) ensure protection is disabled/OFF.
  • If the flash fails mid process, ensure the following:
    • No piggyback devices such as JB4 or Dinan or similar are connected and active. Need to be in bypass or map0 mode to flash otherwise they interrupt communication.
    • No exhaust valve controllers which hook up to the OBD wires (such as Macht Schnell) are turned on otherwise these interrupt communication.
    • No gauges are hooked up that read from OBD such as AWRON. AWRON gauge newer firmware goes into so called Service Mode and doesn't need to be turned off/disconnected. If you don't see the gauge show SERVICE MODE when the ENET cable is plugged in you should reach out to Awron support to inquire on their latest firmware update

If the issue happens during ONLINE RECODE or Transmission (TCU) Flashing:

  • Ensure you are in a spot with better internet access. Online Recode and TCU Flashes use internet. Full bars on your phone do not indicate internet connection quality and its just an indicator of how strong the signal to the cell tower is. DME Flashing does NOT use internet and this does not apply to it.
  • If having an issue indicating vehicle not connected, press START button 3x to cycle ignition (on/off/on/off then leave ignition on) and try again.

Battery Charge Issues:

  • A stable battery charge is critical during flashing. If the vehicle sat for a while and hasn't been driven please use a charger. In most cases, driving the car for 20 minutes if it hasn't been driven in a while helps get enough charge to it. Cables from another running car can be used in emergency situations keeping the idle RPM of the other car at around 2500 RPM to provide enough current.
  • A battery charger with an adjustable current (amps) setting should be used and set anywhere between 20 and 50 amps. DO NOT USE a higher current setting than 50 amps. Trickle chargers that don't show the current setting are not suitable as they only usually provide 2-6 amps of current which is inadequate in situations where battery charge on the car is low. DO NOT USE higher than 12 volts.